scott

Jul 052015
 

After this many days in the back country,with no cell service, in Northern Ontario you have lots to catch up on.  I’ve done my homework everyday but just couldn’t hand it in.  Do I get a pass?

We spent the day enjoying the beauty and making new discoveries.  When we had our motors and gen  off and sitting still in the little bay off the pool we heard waterfalls.  You can only hear it in quiet.  A new exploration!!!!  We took the dingy over to the spot where the sound was coming from.  It isn’t obvious at all.  We think it is a drainage area for Lake Topaz because it is above us over the bluff.  The pictures will remain in our memory because we did forget the camera.  It was a beautiful wooded area that not many people have found.  Most boaters are cruising by and miss this gem.  It is 2 small coves just out of the pool.  We anchored there for the night.  If we didn’t have quiet we would have missed it too.

Our next stop is just down Baie Fine to Mary Ann Cove.  The charts show shallow waters but it must be about 15 feet deep.  There were 6 boats already here.  We found what we believe to be the best spot in all of the North Channel, thus far.  They cliff on the west side is so deep that if you wanted you could almost back in directly to the cliff and hop off.  We didn’t go in that far but enjoyed our new found backyard.

The travellers in the North Channel mostly have chain anchors, except for the odd sailboat that has to pull up the anchor by hand.  The other common practice is anchoring out normally, backing into your spot and then using rope or two ropes around trees on shore to stop the swing.  Everyone has a dingy too.  Haven’t seen a sailboat or cruiser without one.  Only the cottagers with their day tripper boats are without.

While here in Mary Ann Cove we decided to take Low Voltage our dingy over to the famous Caslin’s Peak.  It is about an hour trek straight up a dry stream bed to the most spectacular view of the islands.  If you can get there you must go.  Pictures just don’t do the scenery justice.  On the peak is a fellow who had his ashes buried into the rock cliff.  “Cork” was his last name.  He has been here since 1950 and his wife joined him in 2001.  The trek back down is less strenuous and you will see things you missed.

Now what to do?  Our backyard was so perfect for us that we decided to have an open campfire and cook dinner on the flame.  Scott and Aiden gathered the wood and watched it while the wood turned to embers for cooking.  They only thing I had that was able to cook on the open flame was back bacon, or Canadian bacon for our USA friends.  It has become the best way to eat back bacon.  So good!

The sunset was a salmon coloured sky with the campfire burning and reflections on Mary Ann Cove were just gorgeous.

By the way, this was a tribute to our friend Marianne, who Aiden has become very close to, as he said that we have to mention her in this blog and let her know that he was thinking of her while he was here.

 Posted by at 11:24 PM
Jul 042015
 

No wifi and no data…………..now this is living.  For the last couple days we have been incognito up here in north country.  It is so prestine and unspoiled that it is disappointing when we go to a spot and another boater is there.  Didn’t they know we were coming???

We left Covered Portage Cove by 7:30 only to stop about 5 minutes out of the cove  because we didn’t want to wake the other boaters with our gen running for breakfast.  Scott was surprised that after 11 hours sitting the batteries were capable of turning over both engines.  Just outside the cove we turned on the gen for the toaster and coffee and enjoyed the fresh air.   Then we  made our way west to a fjord, sort of.  It looks like a fjord and is the closest thing we will come to seeing one in Ontario.  The Baie Fine, pronounced Bay Fin, is a 20 km or so trek up a pine tree lined, rock bluff valley into what is known as “The Pool”.  The Pool is merely a widening of the fjord where the water “pools” which is the end for most boaters even though the water continues up much farther through bog.  “The Pool” is considered one of the best places to be up here in North Channel.  It had at least a half dozen boats there and we figured more were coming.  We had some leftovers for lunch, and then started to head back down the waterway.  We wanted to be alone with no boats around so we found a small carved out area and anchored there for the night.

In The Pool there is a dock that leads to a path to climb up the bluff.   We took Low Voltage out of her sling and headed over to the dock. Its a great hike through tall pines, rock and foliage.  At the top of the bluff you are awarded a beautiful view of a land locked lake.  Lake Topaz has no fish, no algae and no vegetation.  It is as virgin as a lake can be in these times.  Aiden and Scott took the first dip into the fresh water.  A bit nippy to swim in these parts this year but we won’t be back for several years so we must partake.  If you are coming north for vacation this year pack your warm clothes, wetsuits and lots of bug spray.  The nasty bugger black flies are still out and they have made a meal out of us.  Anyway Lake Topaz is higher in altitude than the Baie Fine so logically it should drain but it doesn’t.  It must have a very thick rock bottom where the water stays put.  It is quite large and many a boater makes the climb up the bluff on a well marked path.  However, marked very well it is not a climb that you will want to take if you are not fit enough to do so.  Scott showed Aiden how to jump from the cliffs at Lake Topaz.  So he started with a low 1 metre one and by the time we left was jumping off a 5 metre cliff, several times.  He is growing up so fast now that he is 12.  I reminded Scott that everything is 2 hours away and it may be a good idea to scale it back.  Did they?  Not those two!

After a few hours at Lake Topaz we headed back to our resting spot for the night.  We “showered” at the back of the boat which was needed after a bug spray and sunscreen mix.  Aiden has decided he is “sleeping out” tonight so he has secured a spot in the back of the boat and is ready for the night howls and sounds.  It has become the norm for the boys to head out fishing after dinner.  I get to do the dishes and write.  Not so bad when  my office overlooks the beauty and calm of these waters………………and we have run out of water in our holding tank.  So that means boiling water for dishes and adding lake water to the toilets for flushing.  Now we are really roughing it.

 Posted by at 11:21 PM
Jul 032015
 

We woke up this morning to the call of the wild….and drained batteries.  So making breakfast we started up the gen to have power and charge the batteries yet again.  Enjoying our morning coffee on the back deck we watched two of the boats leave and wondered what the rush was all about.  After some time we decided to pack up and head to Killarney which was about a 45 minute run.  Short compared to those hours on the lakes.  In Killarney we stopped at Mountain Lodge Marina.  The attendants there commented on how slow the start was for the season this year.  Only 2 boats stayed overnight and only 3 coming in for tonight.  We filled up the diesel tank and headed to the corner store for a few added extras to spend the next 3 nights on the hook out in the middle of nowhere.

We left Killarney and traveled about 30 minutes to Covered Portage Cove.  A sweet cove with high bluffs all around.  It is quiet here.  At the entrance to the cove is a local known rock formation that resembles and called Indian Head.  I decided not to have the gen start up for lunch so instead we had a BBQ homemade muffin quiche with fruit and provolone cheese on the side .  Turned out rather well on the grill.  Then Low Voltage came off the davit and we took the dingy into the areas close to shore.  The cove reads about 6 feet on the charts but the depth finder says it is 10 feet.  Since we draft about 3.5 feet it is always nice when there is deeper water.  The water levels up north are significantly higher than usual.  The water temps this year are running around 70 degrees F.  Chilly, yes!

Taking the dingy to the end of the cove we found a trail to the top of the bluff where the mosquitos had us for lunch.  Bug spray helped but not entirely.  At the top of the bluff we could see Manitoulin Island and the waters around the island.  We eventually lost the trail even though the information we read said it was a 2 hour hike.  So we spent about a half hour trying to find the rest of the trail.  In doing so we got separated.  Aiden and I and then Scott .  We had already made up a plan to make a loon sound if we did get separated.  Scott has a tendency to wander away because he has a much quicker pace than Aiden and I.  So as he was trying to find the trail in one direction, Aiden and I were trying to find it in another direction.  Scott did have a cell phone with GPS so I wasn’t worried about him.  He realized that when he did call out for us we didn’t answer.  So he was worried that we had lost him.  Which of course, we did.  Aiden and I decided to go back to where we knew the marked trail was and figured Scott would meet up with us.  So we walked slowly and enjoyed the view of the cove with its pines and black water.  We kept calling out every once in awhile but not with the loon call anymore.  So through the northern forest the calling of “Scott, Dad” rang out every 5 minutes or so.  I heard a very far off call back after about 40 minutes of “I’m coming”.  We did catch up with each other and found out what had happened.  As Scott went off in his direction he ended up by the water and called us.  We didn’t answer so he knew we were out of range.  His hope was that we didn’t try to follow him.  He didn’t know exactly where he was so he climbed the bluff again to get his bearing.  That is when he discovered that he had somehow hiked to the next bluff.  So back down he went hoping again that we didn’t follow.  Once he was in the valley between the 2 bluffs that is when he heard our faint call to him!

So now the boys are out fishing again.  I’m enjoying the sound of the gen again booting up the run down batteries from the day.  I’m sure we are PO’ing the sail boats here in the cove.  3 hours is a long time in complete quiet with a gen running.  It is what it is!

 

FYI for our non-boater friends – “on the hook” merely means to be anchored!

 Posted by at 11:01 PM
Jul 022015
 

We had the luxury of a few hours in the morning due to a shorter day of driving today. I picked up the peanut butter that is an absolute must in our family while Scott chatted with the locals. He friended a few fellas and was told of some great spots for mooring. One fella had a favourite spot that he was going to and offered us to join him. Scott also downloaded some great “must do” spots from another local.

Aiden’s Scout Troop is coming to a campground here in a few days. He wasn’t able to go because we are on this journey. So instead we asked him to plan out a finder’s game for when they are in Toby. He created a box filled with items for them to find, made up a word map with highlights of the way to go and places to discover. My only hope now is that it won’t be found. Not by human but perhaps a racoon or two may discover its contents.

We knew we had to stop at “The Grotto” on the way through to Killarney. It is a cave formation on the side of a rock cliff that you can get to by boat as well as by car. It is located in Cypress Lake Campground just outside Toby. The Grotto is known for its turquoise waters and very unique shape. Many tourists go to this spot to swim. It is not for the unfit however. You must climb rocky surfaces in order to get into the grotto. It is a must see from the water!

After indulging ourselves in the beauty of the cave we headed over to Flowerpot Island. The island itself is very small with a resort of sorts on it. The island is very secluded but with the glass bottom boats visiting just about every 15 minutes it isn’t very quiet. The visitors that do go ashore spend their time exploring large rock formations in the shape of tall standing flowerpots. There are several shipwrecks also visible around the island.

It was just before lunch when we decided to leave Flowerpot Island and head over to our final stop for the night. A small inlet just east of Killarney. Stopping a few times in Collin’s Inlet which turns east (or west depending on which way you are coming from) and mirrors Lake Huron in its path, we saw for the first time the start of the Canadian Shield. Rocks, pines and black water that is synonymous with Northern Ontario greats us. The funny thing about this is that we, as Ontarians, are used to “up north” water. The locals were telling us that the North Channel welcomes thousands of American boaters each year. Apparently several of them are disappointed that the water is so black and not the Lake Huron colour of blue or the Tobermory aquamarine crystal clear colours. They think it is dirty and won’t indulge in its natural beauty.

We finally can slow our pace for the next 10 days or so. Staying on the hook tonight, in the middle of nowhere, in the darkest of dark is our destiny for this trip. We are hoping to see lots of stars and maybe even the Aurora Borealis. Skies are clear for now and we have confidence that the weather will hold out for the next 5 days or so.
Now the boys are out fishing trying to catch tomorrow’s dinner. I’m here writing to all of you listening to the gen run to charge the batteries for the night. The wind has picked up but it will die down soon. We are completely sheltered here, not completely alone, with 4 other boats enjoying the quiet and serenity.

 Posted by at 1:24 PM
Jun 292015
 

After yesterday’s bouncing around on the lake we decided to leave early to beat the changing winds that were expected to be SW which would be the worst for us going west. Traveling past Pelee Point and Pelee Island, the southern most tip of Canada we noticed more shipping activity. Lakers coming out of the Detroit River passing us. There was one from St. Catharines so, of course, we had to take a picture. A little bit of home. Lake Erie played nice today but only due to us leaving early.

Upon getting into the Detroit River we decided to drop anchor and have a hot BBQ lunch. Beautiful homes are located along both sides of Canada and the USA. The waters here have a turquoise colour leaving us to think of the Caribbean. We made the decision to stay on the Canadian side but first we cruised between Windsor and Detroit. Two beautiful waterfront cities. No docking on either side while in the city so we passed by with the camera and memories. Detroit starts with its massive steel mills, while Windsor has virgin forests. Such a polar opposite.

Heading passed Belle Isle, an American island that has been made into a walking path park and Peche Island the Canadian Island still prestine in its forests. We are staying at the Lakeview Park Marina just opposite Peche Island. Nice marina, with laundry, showers, all amenities except walking to downtown. You would need a car or taxi. Tight squeeze for Scott when coming in due to winds of Lake St. Clair which is visible over the breakwater.

After hooking up Conductance we took Low Voltage out for a spin and a hike on Peche Island. This is the old Hiram Walker Estate. You know, Canadian Club whiskey tycoon. He had his home on the island but as it is now it is only ruins and nature paths. We did see swans with their little ones, turtles, a mink having its dinner, and so many various birds. It is the kind of place that you would go if you want to get back to nature. Unfortunately the island is loosing its shore on the north side to Lake St. Clair and its weather. No protection from the winds and surf so the north walking trail is about 2 metres in knee deep water.

Tomorrow we are on to Lake Huron and getting to Goderich. Hoping for calm waters this time ’round on Lake Huron. Last venture out there was trying to stay ahead of a storm when we were coming home from our Trent Trip.

 Posted by at 12:01 PM
Aug 182014
 

Headed across Lake Erie to Port Dover. Before heading into Port Dover we stopped on the hook for lunch at Long Point. Long Point is only accessible by boat and you must watch the exploring off the beach due to ticks and Lyme Disease. Scott and Aiden took Low Voltage to the beach. I stayed onboard. The waves were good but I always worry about losing the anchor with a shift of the wind and breaking free. Never have but there is always a first time. I made lunch while they took some gorgeous photos and found some “quick sand”. Being this beach is not easily accessible it is pristine. Beautiful white sand where you feel like a pioneer and landing on shore for the first time. You are lucky to find footprints anywhere.

First time in months since Conductance has seen Canada. Port Dover is a bustling travel destination for boats, tourists, cottagers and the like. Shops, restaurants and everything you need available. Picked up a pair of water shoes for Scott and had a fish dinner at a recommended outdoor bistro. Apparently best in town. Well, I suppose if you like lots of batter and french fries. Ice cream shops on every corner so had to pick one. Best beach is located in town. Headed back to the boat after several hours walking around town. Noticed a small inlet that has docks available for quick stops located before the entrance to the marina. Not sure about overnight but we would have much preferred this stop even though there was no power available. Heading home tomorrow.

 

 

 

 Posted by at 1:23 AM
Aug 172014
 

We really wanted to make a different stop along the way before getting to Buffalo. We have already been to Dunkirk so thought about this little stop. A little fishing marina that could barely fit our boat. They literally stuffed us on a long dock that Scott had to shift around corners to get to. Thank goodness the winds were good. Otherwise we would have had to pass. This little stop was so worth it though. Beside the marina the large freighters come in to pick up, unload and dock. Very industrial around the water here. A small restaurant as well. We took our bikes into town. A little hometown America with not much to do but these little stops are always an adventure. Not much to see but a nice bike ride none the less.

 

 

 Posted by at 1:22 AM
Aug 162014
 

We decided to head back to Cleveland after hearing that the new city marina was next to the Science Centre, the decommissioned freighter was also there and the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame. I did some laundry while the guys went into downtown for about 1 1/2 tripping around the city centre. There was a big bash for LGTB and the music was blasting. It was awesome. The Science Centre is a great place to view the waterfront and have some interactive displays for Aiden. We never pass up a Science Centre. We did go through the freighter as well. Well worth it if you like a bit of history and an insight into living on a ship that travels through our lakes.

We had an interesting conversation with the US Coast Guard as they pulled in an overcrowded boat with only one lifejacket. The officer was going to come aboard before he realized that the Canadian flag was dangling off the stern. Being Canadian the safety equipment needed onboard is different from the US requirements, and our laws have more requirements anyway. So we just chatted with him for about 20 minutes about our travels and his experiences. Of course we were sipping bevies. I think he may have been a bit jealous over that fact!

 

 

 Posted by at 1:21 AM
Aug 152014
 

After a day and night in Sandusky, Ohio we headed out to Vermillion, OH. What a lovely spot. We reserved the last spot at the entrance to the inlet at the Yacht Club. After stopping in there and a bite to eat we took “Low Voltage” out for a spin down the inlet. Through the town of Vermillion this little inlet meanders with several stops and things to see. We past a gorgeous 80 ft plus yacht along the way. Restaurants were everywhere with boat slips available to stop for a lunch or dinner break, or a bevy or two. After a day of exploring the waterway and the little town on foot we did see a beautiful sunset. We had the best spot in the area as we were near the entrance to Lake Erie with no housing to the west. Just another day in life aboard.

 

 

 Posted by at 1:20 AM
Aug 142014
 

……………..and now there is Cedar Point. Only the best ever amusement park anywhere around. I wish the food was better though. Aiden and Scott went on Top Thrill Dragster. Insanely fast 10 seconds of your life. Wow. Unfortunately the new coaster GateKeeper was not operating but we did just about every other one available. So fun.

 

 

 Posted by at 1:18 AM