TRAVELS of "CONDUCTANCE"

No wifi and no data…………..now this is living.  For the last couple days we have been incognito up here in north country.  It is so prestine and unspoiled that it is disappointing when we go to a spot and another boater is there.  Didn’t they know we were coming???

We left Covered Portage Cove by 7:30 only to stop about 5 minutes out of the cove  because we didn’t want to wake the other boaters with our gen running for breakfast.  Scott was surprised that after 11 hours sitting the batteries were capable of turning over both engines.  Just outside the cove we turned on the gen for the toaster and coffee and enjoyed the fresh air.   Then we  made our way west to a fjord, sort of.  It looks like a fjord and is the closest thing we will come to seeing one in Ontario.  The Baie Fine, pronounced Bay Fin, is a 20 km or so trek up a pine tree lined, rock bluff valley into what is known as “The Pool”.  The Pool is merely a widening of the fjord where the water “pools” which is the end for most boaters even though the water continues up much farther through bog.  “The Pool” is considered one of the best places to be up here in North Channel.  It had at least a half dozen boats there and we figured more were coming.  We had some leftovers for lunch, and then started to head back down the waterway.  We wanted to be alone with no boats around so we found a small carved out area and anchored there for the night.

In The Pool there is a dock that leads to a path to climb up the bluff.   We took Low Voltage out of her sling and headed over to the dock. Its a great hike through tall pines, rock and foliage.  At the top of the bluff you are awarded a beautiful view of a land locked lake.  Lake Topaz has no fish, no algae and no vegetation.  It is as virgin as a lake can be in these times.  Aiden and Scott took the first dip into the fresh water.  A bit nippy to swim in these parts this year but we won’t be back for several years so we must partake.  If you are coming north for vacation this year pack your warm clothes, wetsuits and lots of bug spray.  The nasty bugger black flies are still out and they have made a meal out of us.  Anyway Lake Topaz is higher in altitude than the Baie Fine so logically it should drain but it doesn’t.  It must have a very thick rock bottom where the water stays put.  It is quite large and many a boater makes the climb up the bluff on a well marked path.  However, marked very well it is not a climb that you will want to take if you are not fit enough to do so.  Scott showed Aiden how to jump from the cliffs at Lake Topaz.  So he started with a low 1 metre one and by the time we left was jumping off a 5 metre cliff, several times.  He is growing up so fast now that he is 12.  I reminded Scott that everything is 2 hours away and it may be a good idea to scale it back.  Did they?  Not those two!

After a few hours at Lake Topaz we headed back to our resting spot for the night.  We “showered” at the back of the boat which was needed after a bug spray and sunscreen mix.  Aiden has decided he is “sleeping out” tonight so he has secured a spot in the back of the boat and is ready for the night howls and sounds.  It has become the norm for the boys to head out fishing after dinner.  I get to do the dishes and write.  Not so bad when  my office overlooks the beauty and calm of these waters………………and we have run out of water in our holding tank.  So that means boiling water for dishes and adding lake water to the toilets for flushing.  Now we are really roughing it.

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We had the luxury of a few hours in the morning due to a shorter day of driving today. I picked up the peanut butter that is an absolute must in our family while Scott chatted with the locals. He friended a few fellas and was told of some great spots for mooring. One fella had a favourite spot that he was going to and offered us to join him. Scott also downloaded some great “must do” spots from another local.

Aiden’s Scout Troop is coming to a campground here in a few days. He wasn’t able to go because we are on this journey. So instead we asked him to plan out a finder’s game for when they are in Toby. He created a box filled with items for them to find, made up a word map with highlights of the way to go and places to discover. My only hope now is that it won’t be found. Not by human but perhaps a racoon or two may discover its contents.

We knew we had to stop at “The Grotto” on the way through to Killarney. It is a cave formation on the side of a rock cliff that you can get to by boat as well as by car. It is located in Cypress Lake Campground just outside Toby. The Grotto is known for its turquoise waters and very unique shape. Many tourists go to this spot to swim. It is not for the unfit however. You must climb rocky surfaces in order to get into the grotto. It is a must see from the water!

After indulging ourselves in the beauty of the cave we headed over to Flowerpot Island. The island itself is very small with a resort of sorts on it. The island is very secluded but with the glass bottom boats visiting just about every 15 minutes it isn’t very quiet. The visitors that do go ashore spend their time exploring large rock formations in the shape of tall standing flowerpots. There are several shipwrecks also visible around the island.

It was just before lunch when we decided to leave Flowerpot Island and head over to our final stop for the night. A small inlet just east of Killarney. Stopping a few times in Collin’s Inlet which turns east (or west depending on which way you are coming from) and mirrors Lake Huron in its path, we saw for the first time the start of the Canadian Shield. Rocks, pines and black water that is synonymous with Northern Ontario greats us. The funny thing about this is that we, as Ontarians, are used to “up north” water. The locals were telling us that the North Channel welcomes thousands of American boaters each year. Apparently several of them are disappointed that the water is so black and not the Lake Huron colour of blue or the Tobermory aquamarine crystal clear colours. They think it is dirty and won’t indulge in its natural beauty.

We finally can slow our pace for the next 10 days or so. Staying on the hook tonight, in the middle of nowhere, in the darkest of dark is our destiny for this trip. We are hoping to see lots of stars and maybe even the Aurora Borealis. Skies are clear for now and we have confidence that the weather will hold out for the next 5 days or so.
Now the boys are out fishing trying to catch tomorrow’s dinner. I’m here writing to all of you listening to the gen run to charge the batteries for the night. The wind has picked up but it will die down soon. We are completely sheltered here, not completely alone, with 4 other boats enjoying the quiet and serenity.

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Again we decided to leave early with hopes for a calm water on Lake St. Clair and Lake Huron.  Lake St. Clair was uneventful while we past some prestigious houses on the USA side.  We were lucky enough to pass the tall ships, Pinta and Nina on our way.  The Bluewater Bridge linking Sarnia, ON and Port Huron, MI looks massive from the water.  Lots of coal power plants line the water’s edge on both sides of the border in this area.

Upon entering Huron the waters calmed to less than a ripple.  That stayed with us all the way to Kincardine.  At first we thought we would stop south at Goderich, but with the water playing nice we decided to push to make tomorrow’s trip a bit shorter.  However, the fog or should I say the sheet.  There was visibility of about 50 metres so the radar when on.  There really isn’t much worse than staring at a white screen waiting for something to jump out.

When we were out at 20 km from Kincardine the boat started to list to the starboard side.  Then the auto pilot decided to continue to make right hand turns.  Scott eventually figured that something must have been caught on the trim tabs because once we slowed she righted herself.  The auto pilot took some figuring out.  Scott mentioned that the compass for the auto was behind the glove box.  I pulled everything out and discovered a strong magnet inside.  We figured that when Scott went in the glovebox to get his ear plugs he must have shifted the magnet and threw off the auto.  It hasn’t been completely tested yet but tomorrow on our way to Toby we’ll be testing that theory.

In Kincardine Marina we did fuel up with diesel and got a slip for the night.  Pouring down rain came just as we were hooking up power.  Good timing!  We thought that we would make the best of it and grab our rain gear and head into town.  The downtown is bustling with restaurants, pharmacy, corner store and just about everything else.  I should have had my nails done!!  A little dinner at Bruce’s Steak House and, of course, the required ice cream at the creamery, we headed back to the boat taking pictures along the way.  It had stopped raining.

Looking at the weather for the next few days shows sun and temps in the low 20s C.  That’s 70ish F for our USA friends.  Tomorrow is Canada Day and we are expecting a big show in the Town of Tobermory!  Bring it!

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Long travel day today.  We left Port Colborne as soon as the winds turned east. Getting underway was great for about an hour then the north winds started.  Hitting the side of the boat with only 3 foot waves but tossing us around a bit made it a queasy afternoon.  We did 160 miles and landed in Rondeau Bay with a very much needed diesel fill up.

Conductance full out proved to be a well tuned boat. We relied on electronics and a wish after getting to Port Stanley and finding out that they just took out their diesel tanks. No diesel until Rondeau Bay which was cutting it close. Scott watched the fuel gauges and range until we pulled into Erieau Marina with 3 gallons to spare. I think that was the nail biter for the day.

Now the winds have died down and left us with completely flat water to look at hoping for a good travel day tomorrow.

At Rondeau Bay we are staying at Erieau Marina with wifi, a pool, gym, LCBO and beer store along with the marine store all at the marina.  We walked through the town to the beach where a typical Lake Erie fishing village has come alive with cottages, tourists, cute little mom and pop restaurants.

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Beautiful cruise down the upper Niagara River from Tonawanda Gateway Park. When we were past the Peace Bridge the lake was flat. Made it to Sugarloaf Harbour in 1.5 hours.

The waters and winds are not looking good for a Saturday departure. 30-50 Cm of rain with gusts from the west of 70 km. That means big seas so we may not be leaving as scheduled.