TRAVELS of "HELIOPAUSE"

Another early start to the day as we leave this anchorage and head to Paducah, KY. Only 1.5 miles on The Miss and we take a swift left turn onto the Ohio River. The Ohio River current runs against us as it feeds the Mississippi heading south. We only have 60 miles in total on the Ohio River. Today we will run about half to Paducah where the city has built a dock complete with diesel, gas, pump out, water, power. The city is available to explore.

First we must get through the Olmstead Lock and Dam. In 2015 when we were through these parts it was under construction. It will be interesting to see the finished project.

The project consisted of two 110’ X 1200’ locks adjacent to the Illinois bank, and a dam comprised of five Tainter gates, 1400’ of boat operated wickets and a fixed weir. The proposed replacement structure will eliminate Ohio River Locks & Dams 52 & 53. Locks & Dams 52 & 53 were completed in 1929 and the temporary 1,200′ long lock chambers were added in 1969 at Locks & Dam 52 and 1979 at Locks & Dam 53. The antiquated design and age of these structures make it impossible to meet current traffic demands without significant delays. The existing structures have deteriorated structurally and are overstressed during normal operating conditions. Existing wicket dam has missing sections and wickets that will not raise making it very difficult to maintain pool during low water. The temporary locks at Locks & Dam 52 & 53 have significantly passed their 15-year design life. This strategic reach of the Ohio River provides a connection between the Mississippi River, Tennessee River and Cumberland River. More tonnage passes this point than any other place in America’s inland navigation system. In 2011, 91 million tons (Locks & Dam 52), traversed this portion of the Ohio River. 25% of all coal shipped on the inland waterways transits Locks & Dam 52, destined for many of the 50 power plants located on the Ohio River System or the 17 power plants located in eight states on the Upper or Lower Mississippi River.

As we pass into Kentucky we do notice a lot of coal plants on the shorelines. Barges are now carrying open loads of coal which we had not seen until now. We pass more tows and massive 30 piece barges being pushed along the current. There are dredging projects happening. Massive dredging machines line the channel. The Ohio River is a wide channel which makes it easy to pass. If it weren’t for the activity on the water there would be only shoreline as this area is again very unpopulated.

Paducah, originally known as Pekin, was settled around 1815.  Settlers were attracted to the community due to its location at the confluence of the Ohio and Tennessee Rivers.  The community was inhabited by a mix of Native Americans and Europeans who lived harmoniously, trading goods and services.

In 1827, William Clark, Superintendent of Indian Affairs for the Mississippi-Missouri region,  arrived in Pekin with a title deed to the land he now owned, which was issued by the United States Supreme Court.  Clark most likely took stock of the settlers that had arrived at some point before himself, and offered the land for purchase, so they could occupy it with title in their name. If they did not choose to purchase the right to occupy the land, they most likely relocated to another area. The town was platted out and named in honor of the largest nation of Native Americans that ever roamed North America, the Padouca Indians. Lewis and Clark had made acquaintance with many of them while on their trek west.  A letter written by Clark to his son clearly states the reason for the naming of the town. (A facsimile of the letter and the original Paducah maps are on display at the Market House Museum in Paducah.) The community was incorporated in 1830.

Paducah thrived due to its port facilities along the waterways that were used by steamboats.  A factory that manufactured red bricks was established and a foundry for making rail and locomotive components was built, ultimately contributing to a river and rail industrial economy.

In 1856, Paducah was chartered as a city.  The community continued to capitalize on its geographic location by becoming the site of dry dock facilities for steamboats and towboats and, in turn, headquarters for various bargeline companies.  Paducah also became an important railway hub for the Illinois Central Railroad due to its proximity to the coal fields in Kentucky and Illinois.

In 1937, the Ohio River at Paducah rose over its 50-foot flood stage.  The flood was considered to be the worst natural disaster in Paducah’s history. As a result of the flood, the United States Army Corps of Engineers built a flood wall to replace the earthen levee that had once been in place which now has artists works painted on the walls for you to view.

Other significant events in the community’s history include the selection of Paducah in 1948 for the development of a new Uranium Enrichment Plant, and the development of the Museum of the American Quilter’s Society in Paducah in 1991, which draws quilters from around the world.

Paducah has several museums , such as the Paducah Railroad Museum, the River Discovery Museum, the Tilghman Civil War Museum, and the oldest, the William Clark Market House Museum, founded in 1968.  Several festivals such as the American Quilter’s Society Quilt Show and Contest in April (AQS QuiltWeekTM), the LowerTown Arts & Music Festival in May, and BBQ on the River in September attract large crowds.

In 2017, the City of Paducah opened its 340-foot transient boat dock adjacent to a newly constructed park area that extends into the Ohio River.  The park provides a harbour area for the transient dock and creates the potential for the development of a future marina.

The dock, located downstream from the heart of historic downtown Paducah, provides space for transient boaters to enjoy Paducah by spending a few hours or spending several nights.  Amenities include fuel (diesel and marine grade gasoline), water, power pedestals, and a sewer pumpout station . We spend the next couple nights here along with 9 other boats.

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Finally the wind Gods have determined we are in the good books as the winds turn quiet. Up at the crack of dawn we stumble through the cabin getting all ready to take on this next leg of our journey. Yesterday we filled with the tanks with water, prepared meals for lunch and generally go ready for the next 250 miles of solitude and gumption.

Our first lock at at Mel Price Lock was easy. We contacted the lockmaster from the marina, all 3 boats headed down and we were joined by 1 more. We all head into our places with ease. We have met the folks on The Dark Side. A cute 36 ft American Tug. All I can think about is how PattiJo and Doug would love this cute vessel. With the name Dark Side it is a shoe in. Give up sailing and come to The Dark Side. The other vessel is a 48 ft Power Cat going by the name of Highwinds whose couple is enjoying their time between working and cruising with Mom and Dad. The other boat is being piloted by a professinal Captain.

We have 2 locks today. The first being The Mel Price Lock is 27 feet but we only lock about 12 feet to meet up with the Mississippi. This portion of our journey south on The Mississippi River is one where it can challenge you. Long travel days, massive tows with their barges, lots of debris and a current at anywhere from 2 -3 knots. At times the Miss can be wide and others she narrows where you should check for tows and barges as you don’t want to meet up on the curve in the narrow area. It can feel desolute out here. Not much around. No birds, no wildlife, just you and your wits.

The Mississippi River is one of the world’s major river systems in size, habitat diversity and biological productivity. It is also one of the world’s most important commercial waterways and one of North America’s great migration routes for both birds and fishes.

Native Americans lived along its banks and used the river for sustenance and transportation. Early European explorers used the Mississippi to explore the interior and the northern reaches of what was to become the United States. Fur traders plied their trade on the river and soldiers of several nations garrisoned troops at strategic points, at various times, along the river when the area was still on the frontier.

White settlers from Europe and the United States (and often their slaves) arrived on steamboats dispossessing the Native Americans of their lands and converting the landscape into farms and cities.

Today, the Mississippi River powers a significant segment of the economy in the upper Midwest. Barges and their tows move approximately 175 million tons of freight each year on the upper Mississippi through a system of 29 locks and dams. It is also a major recreational resource for boaters, canoeists, hunters, anglers, and birdwatchers and offers many outdoor opportunities. For our purposes the Mississippi is stated as the Upper Mississippi where we travel and only 2 locks and the Lower Mississippi that is less friendly to the recreational boater and commerce reigns.

The second lock, The Chain of Rocks Lock, has become notorious as a 44 ft sailboat took the wrong turn and ended up on the actual Chain of Rocks in rapids and had to be rescued. They too are Loopers. The river steers to the left to a manmade dugout canal to avoid the rapids and the rocks that traverse on the main part of the river. Unfortunately they went right instead of left. During our stay in Alton and the winds we experienced, the sailboat let loose and sunk at the base of the rapids. Very sad time for us Loopers when we hear of such tragedies.

We arrive at with our caravan of boats has us pull up to the side of the cement wall on the opposite side of the lock. Now we know it will be a long wait. The wait was about 2.5 hours until 2 tugs and their barges moved through heading north. Now all 4 of us quickly get into a moving pattern to move into the lock and find our spot on the bollard. We have also aquired a sailboat running south, which makes us a caravan of 5. Another easy ride down, our last on The Mississippi River. Now the challenge begins as we leave the lock into the vastness of mid America.

The river is filled with debris. Logs, trees, you name it is is swirling in the current and eddies. The push from the current is a steady 2 knots today making our long day to anchorage a shorter run. Traveling south on the Miss the brown, silty water with its chocolate chunks of debris make for a very boring run. At about 11 knots we pass many tows and barges in tight and open spaces along this deceivingly wide river. She is shallow on both sides. The weir dams are apparent in this low water. Weir dams are piles of stone about 6 feet high and several hundred feet long placed in a straight line out into the river, from both shorelines. These weirs divert water to the middle for the significant traffic of barges that travel here all year long. Some of these weirs are in a semi circle, some have shoaled up down river from the original weir dam. This is our first time seeing what they look like as the water was at least 6-8 feet higher when we came through in 2015. The entire Miss looks very different than we remember.

We are heading to the James F. Costello Lock (Kaskaskia Lock) for a free dock. The lock allows folks the opportunity to stay on the outside of the lock walls in a secure area. The anchorages are few and far between so this is a welcome opportunity. The water can reach extreme levels when the waters run. The entire cement wall is a floating dock that runs along 3 cement pilings to allow the entire wall of approximately 200 feet to float making this a great respite. The lock is located off the main Miss on a tributary so the current is almost none existent. It is a great spot to duck in for weather, quick fixes or a good night’s sleep before moving along the more challenging portion of the Miss. We stay here with Dark Side and enjoy sundowners and appies before the sun does go down and the cold kicks in. Tomorrow is a long day as we run 120 miles to the confluence of The Mississippi and the Ohio River. It will be an anchorage for us as we wait out a storm with some winds gusting to 15 mph.

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Willow Island Anchorage – Alton Marina, Alton, IL

This is the last day on the llinois River. We will connect with the Mississippi River at a small town called Grafton, IL where many Loopers stay. Ourselves, we will pass Grafton and head on over to Alton, IL. Hopefully meeting some other Loopers who have been there for awhile.

The Illinois River foliage is starting to change colours. We can see the beginnings of the yellows with a bit of reds along the hills. We have had some cooler nights where we needed the extra blankets and put the heat on in the mornings to warm up for breakfast. Those cooler nights have caused the leaves to change. Our day is scewed being on the different time zone as well. An hour behind everyone on Eastern Time we are on the edge of the Central Time making our days start earlier and nights coming an hour earlier. It is dark here by our time 6:30 and morning and sunrise is around 6:30 AM. So we start our days early and end our nights early. Being outside a lot of the time creates a good night’s sleep anyway so by the time it is 8:00 we are already thinking of sundowners and bedtime.

Approaching the Mississippi River the Illinois River widens. The Miss has a wide span but shallows on the edges of the channel quickly. Grafton is the entrance to the Mississippi heading southbound. The colourful town with its bright coloured buildings set on a hill is nothng short of spectacular. Set that with beautiful sedementary rock bluffs the Mississippi has carved out over the millions of years and the sights will astound. These bluffs go on for miles. The bridges that cross over the mighty river are expansive and an engineering feat on their own. We have tried to capture them in photos.

The most memorable portion of our trip from 2015 was the current. It was running after the floods. This time around the river is peaceful and inviting. It still runs around 1 knt or so. Barges have become much larger with their tows pushing more. They are small cities moving along the river. Tucked into Alton Marina we are slipped on the outside of the covered slips. With more slips than boats this marina has proven a great stop for Loopers and locals alike. The covered slips provide the comfort of shade along with the protection from rain. There is always a group party at one of the docks. This marina has both gas and diesel available. They offer 3 night discount for Loopers and 3 free nights after the 3 night discount. Laundry, groceries, any provision you need is available with a couple grocery stores picking you up from the marina to shop and a return trip.

We found pickleball. A group of folks have started to ask the town to expand the tennis courts and offer tournaments. There are 6 courts currently with 4 more on the agenda. The town has a observation area for judging or watching the games. They have also spoke with the adjacent towns and they are putting in several courts as well. This will be pickleball central in not time. Just an Uber ride away.

We will be staying here a couple nights because of the central location for supplies. Scott is changing the engines’ oils. I have more laundry than I care to and groceries are on the agenda. We will be traveling the next 250 miles with no amenities. No anything including fuel or water. The run down the Mississippi can be challenging with winds and/or currents. Finding a place to anchor, where only a few spots are available, so we are trying to stay away from groups until we get past the Mississippi. There are about 100 boats or more ahead of us on the rivers heading to Mobile, AL so spots to stay will be a tough go and we are larger than the majority of other vessels doing the loop.

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Kuchie’s on the Water, free dock – Logsdon Tow Service Barge

At the Peoria Lock the lockmaster had it ready for us.  The lock is a leveler lock meaning it is quite shallow.  This one is 8 feet.  With the low water in the Illinois River now it was about 5 ft.  Scott was able to float in the middle so no tying was necessary.  Best for the crew but a lot more work for the Captain keeping the boat in the middle of the lock.  We were on our own so these short depth locks are a welcome.  We just locked through and a double was ready to enter.  Thanks for the timing Mr. Peoria Lockmaster.

I’m so excited.  We have found a working barge that will allow us to park on her for the night.  She is a working barge for the company Logsdown Tow Service located in Beardstown, IL.  Why am I so excited?  I have no idea but this sounds so cool to me.  So we head off from Kuchie’s on the Water toward Beardstown.

The trip isn’t exciting as we pass tow and barges along with way with not much in between.  It is a rather dismal portion of the river, although scenic with trees and the water it becomes monotonous as it all starts to look the same.  The river meanders and at times there are some stilt homes or the rare fisherman out for a catch.  There does seem to be an endless supply of bridges though.  As the river continues towns must have sprung up in the old days and now the bridges are the only way to keep the small towns together. 

As we approach Beardstown there are tows already positioned on the barge.  We find our spot and find that the barge is a construction barge.  There is literally stuff everywhere.  It is not for the clumsy.  The two tugs there are open so we do sneak peeks inside the engine room where the engines are being tuned up for the next shift.  Waiting for the next crew to come in and rev her up we have our cameras ready.  Finally off she goes. 

We walk around the quiet little town.  There is a huge levy wall that was installed back in the early 1900’s.  It is well maintained.  We ask about the levy and were told that there was a massive flood back in the day.  The small town made the choice to install this levy wall so that it never happened again.  The wall is about 25 feet tall made of poured cement. 

The town grain elevators are working with soy beans and corn.  They fill them from the trucks that come in, fill the silo, then there is a conveyor belt that runs to the waiting barge to be taken north or south to be sold off.  It is one of the largest businesses in this sleepy town.

Scott remembers being here in 2015 with Aiden.  He says he tied up to the steps, climbed over the guard rail because the water was so high and the two of them wandered the town.  He says that the two of them had visited most of the town as did we.  There is a nice lookout over the Illinois River.  Such a nice view.

Back at the boat we watch the tugs move around as dusk, and finally night occurs, and the lights of the tows move around like fireflies on the river.  Their massive spotlights light up the entire river but we still don’t know how they see everything without bumping the barges off of anything. 

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Oct 15 – 19

Henry, IL – Henry Harbor Marina

To make a long story short we are here in Henry, IL because we are waiting on insurance.  Not enough experience, boat too big, want our first born.  You name it it was said by the insurance companies.  We must laugh as we both have at least 15,000 miles under our belts plus all the time spent on our smaller boats over the years.  Finally we contact some fellow Loopers we met in 2017 and chatted with them.  Found the broker and waited the weekend.   Then the documents came through, signed and sealed.  Finally we can move on. 

Yes it is our fault.  No, this is not normal for us to be so unprepared.  We were caught off guard with the permit.  No excuses, just the truth.  So we spent 4 days in Henry, IL.  We caught up on the blog.  We were able to chat with family because the wifi is so good.  The only problem was that we ran out of water.  What now…..so we had 4 x 1 gallon water bottles.  After 2 attempts at bringing out Carrie, our trusty grocery getter, filling at the marina and bringing the bottles back to the boat on the lock wall we decided to go buy water at the grocery store.  We filled up our water bottles in the boat and then dumped 10 gallons at a time into the tank.  It took us all afternoon but we have a full tank.  We were pretty proud of ourselves.

Last night we ended up with lock mates.  An older woody style trawler and a sailboat that came in for diesel.  After some chat they mentioned they needed water.  So the owners brought out hoses, connected the hose to one of the marina spouts, brought the hose across the marina, through the main boat channel, draped the hose across the gravel and filled the fella’s tank.  We decided that we would fill our other tank now.  We got our steps in today, but this is so much easier.  Now full of fuel and water we are ready for the pump out in the morning before we head out. 

Our neighbours were gone when we woke so we had some breakfast and brought the boat to the pump out/fuel dock.  Then we pushed off to continue south.  Coffee in hand, engines start, lines drawn and fenders up cruising to the lock. 

We found this dock alongside a restaurant where you buy dinner and stay the night.  So we decide that will be tomorrow’s destination.  It’s a great secret spot that not too many boaters know about.  So if you are stuck waiting for the Peoria Lock just tie up at Kuchie’s on the water, enjoy the meal and sleep the night away.  Afterall the lock is only 2 miles up so getting ready in the morning should be easy.

Starved Rock Marina – Henry, IL – Lock Wall Oct 15, 2021

We are up early and contact the lock.  We are hoping that getting going early will help with the locking.  Calling Starved Rock Lock before 7 AM the lockmaster tells us he currently has a double in the chamber.  That means that the tugs push barges into the locks without a tug, locks are filled or emptied depending on direction.  They then winch the barges through to stay on the long wall outside the lock and wait for the next batch of barges usually having a tug to push them all down river.  This process takes hours to complete.  The lockmaster says that if we are there in time he will put us into the chamber on the down, between the two batches.  We quickly get set and push off.

At Starved Lock we are asked to wait on the north side of the massive cement pilings so that the first batch of barges can be winched forward.  We only wait about 20 minutes and then again we end up going through a squeeze between the barge end and the lock wall.  Captain is used to this and does it with ease.  Again another morning with no wind. 

Cruising south on the Illinois River the trees are all still green.  Fall has not made an appearance yet except for the cool nights.  This section of the river is more wilderness than it is industrial.  There is so much bird life here.  Herons, Egrets, ducks that we have no idea which kind they are, just sitting enjoying the peace.  We spot some large white birds.  I mean very large.  We thought they were storks but they have short legs and duck feet.  We research them and come to find out that they are migrating white pelicans that are native to the Illinois River.  Who knew?  We have been told that there are lots of bald eagles around these parts but have not seen any.  We start to talk about them and without the words out of mouths there one is.  Standing so silently on a dead branch watching the waters for his next prey.  Statuesque and very large even on this barren branch. 

Continuing down the river there are pockets of industry and barges at the ready to be filled or emptied.  We have counted 15 barges on a tow as the largest one so far.  Since Chicago the tow have become larger so they can push more, hence the double locking we have encountered.  With the rains we have had there is a lot of debris that Scott dodges with ease.  We only travel at 8 knts or so which makes it very easy to spot.

Pulling into Henry, IL we find the old lock wall that we stayed on in 2015.  The water is about 6 feet less than then.  We could only see the trees popping out of the water on the one side of the old historic lock wall and now we have a full island.  Where we stayed in the past was at the high wall and we had to step down.  Very little wind and the sun has come out for a bit here and there.  The water is becoming the ick brown that I remember.  This fish are jumping again. 

Seneca, IL Springbrook Marina – Oct 13, 2021

Slept in, finally.  Not Scott though.  He was up early as usual.  He says there is rain coming in this afternoon so he wants to get started on the outside chores before the weather changes.  Coffee at the ready and off he goes……drilling holes in the boat!!!!!!

We have been missing our BBQ grill since we bought the boat.  We usually grill just about anything and everything.  There are no areas designated for a grill on this boat.  After coming up with some options, we decided on fishing pole holders that can support the grill on a specially designed BBQ grill holder.  Now is the time to see if it all comes together.

Hole saw in hand and off he goes.  A couple Killdeer birds don’t like us here.  Squawking for hours as Scott works on the back deck.  We don’t mind at all but think it is rather comical. Springbrook Marina is a working marina.  It has the ability to lift larger boats and has many options for breakdowns or maintenance.  The docks are about 40 ft or so with lots of options for smaller vessels with 30 and 50 amp power.  Their lift is a 50 ton lift.  Fuel, both diesel and gas are available on the Illinois River for ease of access.  There is a restaurant here with bar style fare.  A few lender cars are also at the ready for anyone needing to head into town to visit grocery, Walmart, Laundry, or whatever provisions you need.  Kind and friendly staff as well.  The entrance looks narrow but it is about 12 feet throughout the marina.  The slips are approx. 8 ft depth so backing in is a great option.  Scott ventured around the property and saw Kate, our broker extrordinaire, who found and sold us our dream. We had several brokers working with us but Kate continued to stay in touch when we were searching for a boat. She came upon our gem and contacted Scott immediately. The rest is history. We can’t thank Kate, Kyle, the Team at Springbrook Marina for making our dream possible.

Scott installs the fishing rod holders/BBQ grill holder in style and fashion finishing up around noon.  The winds have picked up as well.  Captain Karl shows up on a delivery so we will chat with him before the day turns nasty then it will be indoor chores.  The flies have also returned.  When we left home we were happy to say goodbye to them.  Now they are back since the temps are favourable.  Egrets and Swans are migrating too.  We see them in droves in the shallows of the Illinois River.  The pics do not do it justice.

Rain for short duration of time but it came down in buckets.  The wifi is great here so we updated our software, cleaned the boat, changed out the keyboard we ordered for the laptop and had delivered to Springbrook.  Scott was able to save the laptop by replacing the keyboard that must have been soaked.  Thank goodness we don’t have to buy a new laptop.  We will be having pickerel, or walleye, for dinner from the fish monger we bought from in Kauwanee, WI.  That Killdeer is still squawking too.  At this point it will be hoarse at some point, we hope.