TRAVELS of "HELIOPAUSE"

Chicago, IL – DuSable Marina Oct 10, 221

Scott was checking Nebo, the boat tracker app, and found that our Captain was on Navy Pier on the Tall Ship Windy.  Windy is a tour boat operated out of Chicago for a great sailing experience.  (https://tallshipwindy.com/)  Scott contacts Captain Karl for a meet up when we head out to discover what Navy Pier has to offer.  The pier known as Municipal Pier at the time opened in 1916, was renamed Navy Pier in 1927 to honor the Navy veterans of the first world war.  When the second world war emerged in the 1940s, Navy Pier went back to being a military station.  It mainly served as a place to have pilot training orientation.  The build was overseen by architect Charles Sumner Frost and based on Daniel Burnham’s “Master Plan of Chicago.” The purpose of the Pier was to be a shipping and recreation facility. Navy Pier has enjoyed a remarkable evolution. Originally designed for shipping and recreational purposes, the facility has evolved into a premiere entertainment and exposition center. The pier provides a skyline view only seen being “out front” of the buildings.   We wander until lunch and head back to the boat to dine.

After lunch we have designed a DIY walking architectural tour throughout the main streets of Chicago.  This tour will take us to some of the most acclaimed new buildings and some of the old Chicago buildings that came out the other side, after the burning of Chicago.  We walk The Magnificient Mile of Michigan Ave.  Churches, interesting, designed buildings, and read up on the history of how Chicago rebuilt itself after the burning as we stroll.  There are 3 major designs here in the downtown.  The cement and stone shorter buildings that were skyscrapers in their time, the next generation of tall buildings made of cement and steel and then the 100 story buildings made of steel and glass.  There is so much to learn about how each of these generations of buildings were made. 

Famous architects became famous due to their design of one of these buildings.  Truly a work of art.  The most famous architect is Burnham who in the late 1800’s designed Chicago with streets in a grid formulation.  All streets run north to south or vise versa, and east to west or vice versa.  There are no meandering through other streets.  The city streets are designed in a grid pattern and the city grew from there.  Also in Burnham’s idea for this city he included parks and green spaces which to this day remain.  They are plentiful throughout the city.  The boardwalk was also introduced in that era where you will find different modes of transportation each having their own lane to travel in that is away from the city streets and vehicles.  Our main goal was also to find a grocery store that was close to the boat.  With our cart in tow we also head out and fill our cupboards for traveling south. 

We rent a couple Lyft bikes and peddle our way along the waterfront trail. We were able to see so much more of the city and stopped at the Museum for water and a break before heading back to our boat. These bikes are amazing. You rent them from a kiosk by entering your credit card. Then you get a scan code to the bike you choose. It opens a lock and off you go. For a reasonable price you are able to cruise around for as long or short as you like and drop off the bike at another location that is to your liking. It locks in to a pedestal and you are charged on your credit card accordingly. It’s a great way to get around.

Tonight we are also welcomed with warm temps and dinner on the deck.  City lights glowing, in this our last day in a major city for a long while. 

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Sheboygeon, WI – Milwaukee, WI – Oct 8, 2021

Ralph factor 2.  Not bad seas today.  All good but another day just cruising along the shoreline.  We are excited to see the city lights tonight.  Just a 5 hour trek south to Milwaukee.  South, that’s the best word of the day.

There are many choices here for marinas and anchorages.  We decide to take the space by the Discovery Kids where an anchorage is available.  There is a marina here as well but no water, just power.  This area is to the south of Milwaukee Harbour.  We found a small grocery store and pickleball.  There is a river through Milwaukee that we plan to take with the tender and stop at both of these.

We get HP settled and get Otter, the tender, down to begin our exploring.  It is still early, around 2:30.  Off we go in Otter and onto the Milwaukee River.  What greets us is a huge surprise.  This area of Milwaukee is called the Third Ward.  It was the industrial age buildings that took us by surprise.  They have been converted into condos and apartments right alongside the river.  Not just a small area but the entire area.  There are restaurants, homes, shopping, boat slips all along here.  Old buildings mixed with modern updates to make homes. 

I wouldn’t call the river clean though,  They don’t do a good job of getting the garbage out so it floats together in spots looking more like a garbage dump than a river.  Come on people.  Take care of your waterways. 

So Scott had already mapped out the pickleball area.  It was alongside the river.  The city of Milwaukee has made the underpass of a main street a pickleball area with 2 courts.  We tie up Otter with a locked cable and head to the market.  At the market it is more of fast or fresh food to take out.  Okay so we re-think groceries for Chicago tomorrow.

So we head over to the pickleball, under the overpass.  What a great concept for use of space.  We start to play, just the 2 of us.  Then several folks show up and 2 courts are now going.  We met some very spunky 20 somethings and played several games with them.  It felt so good to play.  It has become my mission to find a good overpass in Niagara Falls and hope to sign them on for a good couple courts. 

After a good sweat we are back in Otter and heading back to HP.  Again passing through the river to the harbour entrance and still finding such great use for brownspace and older buildings.

It was so nice today, weather, boat ride, calm seas and new friends.   Now for those city lights which did not disappoint.  A beautiful city skyline sitting on the deck after a full day and very thankful.  Tomorrow is Chicago!!!

Sturgeon Bay, WI to Kauwanee, WI – Oct 6, 2021

Tired but so ready to begin our journey south.  For the first time we can officially say we are headed south instead of north.  Lake Michigan wasn’t too bad.  Unfortunately we have the next 5 days of easterlies which rarely happens on this lake.  Usually the winds are SW.  Just our luck that as we travel south we have waves on our beam.  Just enough to rock us so not too bad.  Our sailor friends would be jealous. 

An uneventful day as we head to Kauwanee, WI.  We have not done much homework on this place other than we know there is a town wall, power but no water.  The marina cannot take our size.  As we travel down Lake Michigan we notice that the trees have not started to change colours yet.  There is a dabble of colour but not near as much as we had when we left home.  We are fairly far out, about 10 miles or so, so not much to see other than water.  Sun is out and it’s a great day to cruise.

Kauwanee city wall is a great place to stop.  Full power and a free pump out.  We move to the pump out and then hand pull Heliopause back to her spot for the night.  We head out for a walk about.  The town has the largest grandfather clock in the world.  It was made by a businessman here about 50 years ago and it still stands in all its glory.  It has a 3 sided face so everyone in town can see the time.  There is also an old tug here named Ludington.  Ludington was involved in the DDay activities of WWII.  She was a tug that brought in supplies needed for DDay.  She also provisioned other ships, brought in fuel and was the go getter for that infamous day.  Today she rests here in Kauwanee as a walk on tour boat for a donation. 

There is also a fish monger store here.  We head over as the fishing boat comes in and see what the fresh catch of the day is.  Atlantic Salmon are just starting to run and the King Salmon are just about done.  Apparently the Kauwanee River attracts these salmon every year in abundance.  We pick up some fresh Atlantic Salmon, perch, pickerel (or walleye) and the renowned smoked salmon that is boasted about in the reviews.  There is a grocery store about a mile uphill and the harbourmaster has offered us a personal ride.  We are good until Chicago so we decline.

It was a breezy evening and night with the easterlies as this marina is not far from the lake and more open.  However we did not bounce much and recommend this as a great spot.

Hotel Quattro, Sault Ste Marine, ON Oct 3 – 5, 2021

ON HOLD until we can meet up with Heliopause.  So we walk everywhere.  Grocery store for our meals, hardware store because Scott needs something for the boat.  The bank where both of us can do some last minute banking, and lots and lots of logistics for travel for both us and our Captain and his crew. 

It is literally putting together our schedules and the Captain and crew’s schedule, but last minute as we don’t know exactly what the weather will hold for our girl and her new team on the journey south.

Stay tuned until we get back to our home in Sturgeon Bay, WI.

Eagle Island, anchorage – St. Joseph’s Island, Hilton Beach, ON – Hilton Beach Marina – Oct 1, 2021

Today is the day we end this portion of our journey and wait for the Captain to take over from here.  We are hoping for a best case scenario but that has evaded us thus far.  The border is still closed and word has been said that it will be closed until at least November.  Our plan is to have the Captain take her to Chicago where we have 3 options.  She will get there and the border will open and we will have the ability to get a cruising permit.  Or…..she will get there and the border will eventually open.  We will fly home and wait it out.  Or…..she will get there, the border will remain closed and we will put her on the hard until spring when we will go get her and bring her home going through the lakes again. 

We head out of the anchorage very early and travel to St. Joe’s Island.  We never would have thought that we would ever travel quickly through the North Channel but that’s what we have to do.  It’s October, we have a Captain waiting, flights booked, cars and shuttles picking up his team.  There is no time to waste. 

Arriving at Beach Haven Marina proves to be much more convenient than The Soo.  The St. Mary’s River that heads up to The Soo has a 10 km speed limit for several miles.  It would take us a day up and the Captain a day back down.  He charges by the day and all expenses are ours.  So Scott found this island not far from the Port of Entry in Drummond Island, MI.  It was about an hour away from the airport.  Taxis have already been set up. 

Hilton Beach Marina was a fabulous find.  A large marina with everything you need.  Laundry, clean docks, water, fuel, power 50 and 30, restrooms, etc.  Some city marinas are not this great.  A restaurant on the shore if that is your thing. One of the best marinas in the north we would say.

Kincardine, ON, Kincardine Marina – Tobermory, ON, Little Tub Harbour – Sept 29, 2021

One of our favourite places the Little Tub Harbour is set in the small town of Tobermory.  There you will find a clean marina with access to the LCBO, grocery, laundry and many different shops for your tastebuds and shopping pleasures literally at your back door. 

Pulling into our slip we reminisce about our past times here.  This is number 4 now both with Heliopause and Conductance.  Always a pleasure and so much to see and do.  Although on this trip the seeing and doing is not much.  Laundry, LCBO and grocery stock up was our main attraction.  We did walk around town and had the famous Aiden ice cream stop that we always do when he traveled with us.  Scott went around looking for the also famous, and Aiden’s favourite, Manitoulin Island Jams.  After the 4^th shop he did find the local Hawberry Jelly. 

I had a nice walk around town while Scott did some work on the engines and made sure all was well to go before we made the jump to the North Channel. 

So much to do and so little time, yet again.  We are both looking forward to the leisurely days that we thought we had signed up for.  Tomorrow we will be off to a great anchor spot.  Can’t wait as this trip has not been about us and our wants but more of our needs at a moment’s notice.  We love to anchor and enjoy nature rather than marina after marina and a time schedule.

We will get there.  It’s just a matter of time.

Sarnia ON, Sarnia Bay Marina – Sept 21-26, 2021

Yes, it really was a week of wind.  From the first night we stayed where we saw literally 6 inches of rain in a 24 hour period and winds of approx. 60 km winds til the day before we left there was wind.  During this time we did catch up on laundry, groceries, and small maintenance items.  We did not expect to be here for a full week. 

During this time we decided that perhaps hiring a Captain to cross from Sarnia to Port Huron, MI was a great chance.  We started looking into logistics.  We found helicopter charters from Windsor to Detroit.  So that would mean Uber or taxi or shuttle for us from Sarnia and from Detroit to get to Port Huron.  Also found a Captain.  We decided that the best way to make this work was for our Captain to contact the Border Patrol in Port Huron to see if they would allow this to occur.  To our delight,  our Captain did get a written letter to cross.  We were so happy.  This was a game changer.  Our original idea was to hire a Captain to take her across at Sault Ste. Marie, ON to Chicago, IL.  This would mean that since permissions were given in writing that we could now travel the west side of Lake Huron. 

We started making all the logistics happen.  Book Captain, helicopter flights for us, Get the Captain To Sarnia from Toronto, etc, etc.  So many twists and turns to make sure all the pieces fit.  After about two days of phone calls and making it GO TIME we were ready.  We did manage to find a pickleball court and got in a few games and made a few friends.

Then to our disappointment, and beyond our control, the border patrol Supervisor reneged on his letter.  I am not going to go into why, here in print, however it was extremely disappointing.  So now to cancel everything that we had been spending days on and making sure refunds are available.  All the vendors were very agreeable and refunded every dime.

So now what?  Back to our original plan.  Hire a Captain to take her to Chicago at Springbrook Marina, where we bought Heliopause.  We knew they would take care of her if…..she needed to be lifted, winterized and stored.  All this depends on if the border does open.  Springbrook Marina is located on the Illinois River which does not freeze in the winter.  So we decided on a drop date for having her lifted and we would stay in the cold until we could bring her home, only if the border does not open.

We waited for our window on Lake Huron and made a run for it.

Port Stanley, City Dock – Windsor, ON, Riverside Marina – Sept 19, 2012

Winds are achangin’.  We have been watching weather several times a day.  It’s what you do when you are left to the wind Gods and Mother Nature.  There are some nasty storms coming in over the next few days.  Our goal is to head to Leamington and check weather once again to see the update. 

The winds are currently out of the south making for a bit of a beam swell.  Not too bad that it’s uncomfortable, just annoying.  Sunny skies as we watch the cliffs of Lake Erie disappear into the distance.  Not much happens on open waters other than a lot of squinting and wondering what we are missing on the shore.  It is still beautiful from afar.  The beam waves are hitting our port side.  We didn’t think much of it until Scott went down to the master stateroom and realized I had left our porthole open.  The laptop was now soaked. 

As we head to Leamington Scott checks on the weather up and coming.  Seems that there are storms rolling in.  We want to be off the lake and into the Detroit River before the storms or we will be waiting them out here at a marina on Lake Erie.  So we decide Windsor is the best bet.  Afterall, it is just in the confluence of the Detroit River and Lake Erie so even if weather does start we may still have a run to Sarnia, ON. 

We decide on Riverside Marina across from Peche Island.  Peche Island is where the acclaimed Hiram Walker (you know the guy that started the whiskey) decided to purchase and started to build a home there.  The home was never completed but the foundation and some of the grounds are still visible.  The island is now owned by the City of Windsor and has walking trails and a small passenger ferry available.  That is, of course, if you do not have a dingy. 

The weather stayed to our south so we enjoyed a cool evening on the deck with the mandatory sundowners.  Scott took apart the laptop at this point, pulled off the keyboard, stood it up and set up a fan trying to save the computer.  Crossing fingers that the entire laptop isn’t toast.