TRAVELS of "HELIOPAUSE"

We made it but not without a challenge. Waves were low but the rollers were high. We were going less than 7 knts for about 6 hours hoping the seas would calm. The wind was fairly low at 10-15 mph but the creation of those pesky built up waves on open seas was more than our girl could handle for a fast crossing.

We found things on shelves that we didn’t know where there. Stuff was tossed about even though the entire boat was bundled up tight. Pillows on the floors, that sort of thing.

By the time we were about 7 hours out the water settled for us to run 22 knts. We ended up coming into Clearwater Bay after nightfall. Watching for crab pot floats is always difficult at night. They are of various colours about the size of a bowling ball, attached to a rope, attached to a cage with goodies in them that crabs can’t resist. Those ropes will do damage to your props and our pods if we catch one rope. With Scott at the helm and me on the bow we ever so slowly make our way into the bay. We have noted that coming into the area that there are significantly less crab pots than in 2017. It may be that they are “fished out” or that the reef is now protected. Either way it made for an easier passage for us. We notice right away that the temps are now in the 70’s even though it is after 8 pm.

We are met with a guide boat helping us meander through the tight channel at the entrance to Clearwater Bay. With Scott having plotted our way directly to the marina, the full moon and the lights from the city it is very easy to find our way, albeit slowly. Pulling in we are exhausted. We prepare the boat for the night, have an easy pasta dinner and turn off the alarm for morning. We feel like we have made it to our destination. Tomorrow we breathe, enjoy the sun, and discover Clearwater.

We believe that Apalachacola is one of the cutest cities on the Loop. It’s eclectic simplicity and rustic charm offer old town flavour. The architecture of old shrimp and fisheries located along the wharf area, small town bars and shops located along the main street invite guests all year round. In summer it is the playground of south Florida with lots of beaches and entertainment.

The Municipal Marina is a 150 ft wall with 30 and 50 amp, water and close to the provisions you need. The old restored shrimp factory lays at your feet just steps away. It has been restored as an open area to events. We just missed the big shrimp fest this past weekend with thousands of people in attendance here at the waterfront.

We are only staying long enough to get moving and wait out another storm. January in The Panhandle is known for its rain and usually strong winds but normally you can still cruise comfortably.

As we leave it is low tide. We must pass through another open bay but stay in a very narrow channel. As we approach we read less than 6 ft at times. It’s a long passage this channel but winds are comfortable and not much boat traffic. We follow Weeble & Wobble, a Ranger Tug, through this passage. The depths do get better after about an hour but still skinny waters at 9 ft. It takes Scott’s full attention at times like this because just swaying to one side of the channel you are beached and with the water so low it is nerve wracking.

We are heading into Carrabelle for a top up of diesel as we head to Dog Island anchorage for the passage across the Gulf. We just need about 80 gallons or so since St. Andrews Marina at last fill. Crossing the Gulf will not take the full tank but we are always prepared to cross with completely full tanks. We topped up on water at Apalachacola.

As we head to the anchorage the trawlers who run about 8 knts are just heading out. Amy Marie, Jackpot and 1 other that I can’t remember. They will run from 4:00 pm to around 12:00 pm the next day. It’s an overnight and crossing fingers and toes for an easy and safe passage for them.

It is a slow run to Panama City, FL through the canal. The winds are picking up and a large storm is coming in. We will not be anchoring as it is calling for 50 Mph winds from the west. We found Emerald Bay Marina had 1 available spot for us. As we trek along to the slip the dolphins make appearances at our stern and jump in front of us as we travel about 8 knts. The current becomes in our favour and we run a couple knts faster for awhile.

We entered the canal from Choctawhatchee Bay and traveled about 20 miles along the canal. Entering the West Bay the chop is getting more prevalent. The storm is still predicted for later today and full bore overnight. Tomorrow the storm is at its worst but at least we will be awake for that. We head into St. Andrews Bay and stop at St. Andrews Marina for a fuel stop and top up, along with a pumpout. Then continue throgh St. Andrews Bay to the bayou.

We stayed at the Panama City Municipal Marina in 2017 but it is gone, completely gone due to Hurricane Michael. The construction is continuing but they are a long ways off for completion. So many homes destroyed in this area as it was close to the eye, which hit City of Mexico Beach, just a few miles east of here. The trees are barren in some areas. Tops of palm trees are starting to recover.

We head up Watson Bayou to Emerald City Marina. There are great folks that just purchased this marina. It is not on Navionics but we would recommend this marina every day. The docks are in good shape but aqkwardly cut. They are working on what will work for future but for now this is one of the only marinas still in operation in Panama City. We meet up with 4 other Loopers here.

The mairna has free laundry, restrooms, showers, 50 and 30 amp power. We pull out every fender we own to get ready for the storm. It takes us the next 2 hours battening down the lines, getting the right spacing for the fenders and tying down anything on deck. Seth, the owner, then offers to drive us into town for groceries and provisions from the liquor store. It’s going to be a long night folks.

The night sets and for the next 24 hours we battle against heavy westerly winds, rain and fender positioning. We were both up for a few hours just fixing the changes of the boat from the swirly winds. In the morning the rain had passed but the winds stayed. By tonight the winds will pass and we will all come out of our boats with a sigh of relief.

This was one of the worst wind storms we have been in while on the boat. The only other one was in Tobermory, Ontario in 2015.

We will be here at The Wharf over the holidays. The marina has all we need for a long term stayover. The downfall of this location is that no grocery is available anywhere close. You must Uber or rent a car to head to the store. Floating docks make for an easy tide change of about 1 foot too. Lots of Loopers and seaonal boaters here as well. The temps are nice right now with a day high of around 65-70 and a night in the 50s. With those temps comes some humidity though which is not a problem for us as we enjoy the warmth.

The light show has been fun seeing it a few times now and having a glass of wine watching sunsets. We did have some artisan pizza on the patio at Villagio enjoying a couple local craft beers. Unexpected date nights come far and few as we cook onboard most of the time. The sunsets are nice but nothing compares to those mornings on the Tombigbee River.

The pod issue has not disappeared. Scott is going to dive today to clean off the only zincs he didn’t replace on the trim tabs. We is hoping that a coating of fresh water slime since being in the water for 7 months has built up. Then he will check the mercathode system again. Turns out that a button on our joystick has stopped working. So he is looking at a new joystick which will require programming as well. Unfortunately you cannot buy just the button. As we have said boating is just doing boat work in exotic places. It is just the way it is. Still better than shoveling snow. Our girl is getting a bath today as well. I’ll be heading out to give her a really good scrubbing. We have a couple quotes coming in for a wash and polish over the holidays so that she is protected against the UV of Florida and The Bahamas and the salt water.

We won’t be posting as much over the holidays as we all celebrate family and friends. However we may pop in to give any updates.

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Up early this morning to a heavy fog surrounding us that was so thick you couldn’t see the shoreline.  We had company last night as Highlander III joined us in this spectacular anchorage.  We couldn’t see her even though she was at our stern about 500 ft away.  So we kicked back, had an extra tea and waited until the sun would show her face to evaporate the cloud around us.  It would turn out to be another hour.  Not too bad because we are on the last of the journey on the rivers for only 40 miles.  No more locks to the Gulf of Mexico.  We will be staying at a city dock at Mobile Convention Center in downtown Mobile.  There are no facilities here for the boater.  However, you can explore the city and watch the 24/7 marine and shipping industry do its thing. 

The final run down the Mobile River was much easier than yesterday.  Still passing at least 6 tows and barges, yet again, but the water isn’t as narrow and as twisty as yesterday.  Buoys are still not available but with room to spare it is an easy pass of tugs.  The shoreline has no more bluffs, no more hills.  It gives way to sandy, bog here in the Delta.  The Delta refers to the runoff areas of wetlands, bog, marsh or whatever you wish to call it that alligators like.  No we did not see any today.  We did see the short palm trees though which brought a big smile to our faces along with the 72F temps that we will have to cruise with.  Our pods are throwing a fault code and we lost our depth finder.  Boat work in exotic places yet again. 

Entering the Mobile River near Mobile we see a lot more barges off to the side waiting for their tow to pick them up and bring them north.  It becomes more industrial as you leave the sounds of nature behind you and hear the hum of cranes, gantrys, ships, barges, tows, welding and men working.  It changes rather quickly.  We pass some ocean cargo ships waiting to be filled or emptied here in the Port of Mobile.  There are war ships being manufactured here as well.  We will see more of those tomorrow as we approach the mouth of Mobile Bay where there is more being built and serviced. 

The Convention Center dock is a wharf with permanent rubber fenders available.  We place ours between them and the boat for added protection.  No power or water.  Lots of construction and manufacturing noise but it is good to stay for one night before heading out into the Bay.  It is the only way to see the city from downtown unless you head down the Bay to Dog River and rent a car. 

We head into the city for a walk on Dauphin St.  The old style, early 1900’s buildings rest along the Main Street of Old.  It is mainly bars and restaurants now with a few legal offices.  We found a park where some folks were feeding the squirrels.  The squirrels by the hundreds.  Where are they supposed to go but in a park full of oak trees dropping their acorns.  Folks feed them peanuts with the shells directly from their hands.  We continue wandering around find a few more parks, but no squirrels.  Eventually we happen upon a replica of the old Fort Conde.  Again wandering through the old fort and reading about how the French, Spanish, British and the Indigenous people worked and created war to determine the current status of the United States.  It is very different reading about US history from an American perspective. 

The fort guarded Mobile and its citizens for almost 100 years, from 1723-1820. The fort had been built by the French to defend against British or Spanish attack on the strategic location of Mobile and its Bay as a port to the Gulf of Mexico, on the easternmost part of the French Louisiana colony. The strategic importance of Mobile and its fort was significant: the fort protected access into the strategic region between the Mississippi River and the Atlantic colonies along the Alabama and Tombigbee Rivers. A crew of 20 black slaves and 5 white workmen performed original work on the fort. During 1763 to 1780, Britain was in possession of the region, and the fort was renamed in honor of Queen Charlotte. From 1780 to 1813, Spain ruled the region, and the fort was renamed Fuerte Carlota. In 1813, Mobile was occupied by United States troops, and the fort was renamed again as Fort Charlotte. It stands now as a small replica of its origins along the waterfront of the Mobile River. I was today’s year old when I found out that Mardi Gras began in Mobile, AL and not New Orleans. Every year there is a Mardi Gras here on the streets of Mobile to celebrate.

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We had a drivers meeting the night before we leave. Looks like 6 Looper boats are planning the departure in the wee morning hours to get through the Demopolis Lock together. The plan is to decide which side fenders go on for which boats, who is faster and should go into the lock first, and the designated time of 6:30 AM. The news of any alerts is also communicated.

This is a long day of 100 miles. We will go approximately 10 knts or more, even getting up to our comfortable 20 knts to get in during the daylight. There are no real anchorages for this size of boat. Smaller boats pull over just out of the channel but for us our depth and length make this not a safe option for if, and when, a tow and barges come through. Perhaps even a wind change would put us to shallow. So we must head to Bobby’s where we will our friends with the larger vessels. A long windy river with many, many hairpins. Scott calculated “the as the crow flies” mileage and it is 43 miles but by boat it is 100. There are lots of bald eagles flying overhead. I keep trying to get a close up but they are not taking my photo ops seriously.

It seems that there are more barges today. That would be number 5 and it is only 10:30. Water levels are finally at the levels as shown on our electronic charts. The current is running between 1 and 2 knots so we are getting a good push to help our long day seem shorter. The temperature changes swing here. Last night it was 0C or 32F. Today a high of almost 70F or over 20C. The swings in temperature are normal for this time of the year but rarely do they get snow and rarely does it stay at freezing for the day. They will shut off marina water for a couple weeks in January if needed.

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Boring but beautiful as we cruise south. There isn’t much change in the scenery. Every once in awhile a “home”, some damage from the floods or the wildlife shows up. A deer crossing the frigid waters (55F) in the morning sun to reach the other side. All we see is a cute nose and some antler buds sticking out of the water as it knowinly crosses our path. We always slow the speed for the critters. However, sometimes there are just some things that make you go “Huh?” Take the floating refrigerator. The person was cautious enough to remove the doors. That was nice of them. Then there are the places that is home for some while it is falling off the sand rocky bluff. Folks still living inside. The most picturesque beauty on this portion are the White Chalk Bluffs of Epes.

These white cliffs are located on the Tombigbee River at Epes, AL. They are part of the Selma Chalk formations which were deposited at about the same time as England’s famous White Cliffs of Dover. On the state’s western edge, an alabaster memento of central Alabama’s former underwater life rises 50 feet above the Tombigbee River. The White Cliffs of Epes, formed around the same time as their famous Dover cousins, are made up of microscopic algae shells that drifted to the seafloor around 80 million years ago to become a massive chalk formation that spans three states. To give you an idea of the size of these shells, a sugar-cube-sized piece of the chalk contains between 4 and 10 billion shells. The striking, 2-mile stretch in Epes offers visitors gorgeous photo ops and a scenic backdrop for boating. Find the best viewpoint on the bluff side of the Highway 11 bridge or push up your small boat to one of the river’s many popular sandbars along the opposite bank. The cliffs are not open to hikers. Access to these White Bluffs of Epes is very limited to a railroad bridge or being on the waterway.

We are now getting close to Demopolis. We had planned to be at another anchorage tonight but the winds coming in are not pleasureable. Again a narrow Ox Bow, as they are called, with a stern anchor and no space for error. We make the decision to head into the marina.

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We will pass into our 5th State of Mississippi today. Leaving Wisconsin, Illinois, Ohio, Alabama behind us. Well, not Alabama actually. Mississippi and Alabama weave in and out of this waterway so we will pass back and forth between them before leaving Mississippi behind us and staying in Alabama until Florida. The Midway Marina is a family run marina who live on the property. There are lots of “liveaboards” here with their various styles of boats. Sail boats and houseboats are most common. In our opinion it is more of a scrapyard where old boats go to die. It is hard to believe that folks live on these.

The marina has a courtesy car to head to town for essentials. Gas and diesel are available and pumpouts at various stations on the docks. Not much around but a good place to run your pets. The long dock is mainly for the larger boats with covered slips available for the smaller one. No restaurant or extras available here. It is a good place to stay for the run to the next stop in Columbus, MI.

We are up early with our new friends from “Satisfied Frog”. A couple out of Englewood, FL who will complete their loop in the next few weeks. “Oceanus” does not get up early so they will not be traveling with us. Today the 2 vessels will travel through 4 more locks and cover 60 miles to Columbus Marina. No anchorages for our size girls so they too will stop at the marina.

This stretch has a bit more life but not much. We are able to see more herons and bald eagles. There is a resident heron on the last lock we pass through who watches for fish being stirred up by the lock. I was ready with the camera but he was not so lucky.

The Columbus Marina is difficult to get into. Contacting harbourmaster, Steve, is a good idea while you come into the long, narrow stretch toward the harbour. As you round into the harbour the fuel dock will be to starboard. There is a narrow channel marked by green straight markers to keep you off the shoaled area. Stay away from the port side as much as possible. This area is only 6 feet deep but opens up after the entrance to 8 feet. Dockage will be to your starboard. The restaurant has long since closed. There is a great walking path to the park of about 1.5 miles. Also a courtesy car is available and laundry.

We meet up with another Looper heading south “Corkskrew”. They will be traveling with Satisfied Frog and us in the morning as we travel to Demopolis, AL.