TRAVELS of "HELIOPAUSE"

Henry IL, what a great stop. The Marina has been bought by a local family after learning the marina would close. In April, 2021 the Passini family decided to buy out the former owner. They have dreams of making it bigger, better, stronger for Loopers. Although at first glance one might think that the situation isn’t the best. An old lock wall, a marina with about 5 feet of depth. However, overall this is river life. There is a free pump out at the dock on the river, fuel, both gas and diesel 30 amp power, but no water on the lock wall. The marina does have water. The luxury of having a safe place to hang out, enjoy the journey and meet really sweet hometown folk will not be in the cards as we travel south on these rivers. Henry’s marina is a comfortable place if you look beyond your city ideals. This is small town America. The Mayor stopped by and was thrilled to see the marina being used by Loopers. The owners are the kindest you will ever meet. These rivers will be a test for those with expections. These little reprieves will not be there for you as your journey on the Mississippi and beyond will challenge you.

We are in a holding pattern as we figure out the insurance issues we are having with traveling on a boat. Again we did not expect to have the ability to travel. Our focus was getting HP to Springbrook Marina. We still pinch ourselves and thank goodness we have the cruising permit.

On a walking trip into town where there is a grocery store, hardware store, Dairy Queen, a few restaurants we find a sleepy town where everyone who passes you waves. From their car or just passing by on the sidewalk a hello from the friendly locals is welcoming. We did stop in at Henry Foods with “Carrie” our grocery cart and picked up a few items. We are coming up to a stretch where groceries close to the marinas or anchorages will likey be a trek or not available.

There is a park in the centre of town “Central Park” as it is known, where a war memorial is set up for the local folks who gave their lives in the many wars of the 20th Century. A small tribute for all the Veterans is at a downtown corner made by the local town folk. Some buildings have stood the test of time and look to be from the 1800’s but it’s a guess as to how old they are. The old wooden handmade corbiels and cornices painted with layers and layers of paint over the years tell us a hidden tale.

Being here makes you appreciate what you have completed on your journey this far and look forward to what the next few hundred miles will bring. So treat the folks with kindness in your heart and may your journey down the rivers make you a stronger person.

Seneca, IL Springbrook Marina – Starved Rock Marina – Oct 14

The lock is about an hour away so once up we prepare to leave, call the lock and start the engine.  The lockmaster says to get there quickly and he’ll run us down before the double tows coming up.  We’re gone before finishing breakfast. 

The ride down is a comfortable ride.  No wind today.  Just a calm and light rain starting, more of a drizzle.  As we approach the lock we are first to arrive and hail the lockmaster.  He says it will be a 2 hour wait.  As we wait 2 more recreational vessels show up.  We chat with each other about where we are all going and the wait time.  This is the Mersailles Lock with a larger pool to wait in.  Then another boat shows up.  Now the 4 of us wait…..almost 3 hours.  Not much we can do but wait.

When the lock doors open they are full of barges, no tow.  These barges are full of sand and weighted.  How do they get them out of there without a tow?  As we watch the fellas onshore work with some kind of winch, or something, the barges move so slowly out of the lock.  There is maybe 25 feet between the end of the barge and the lock wall.  We are hailed to go in through this space.  Us being 60 feet and watching 2 of our comrades coming in at 75 ft.  Great Captains for all.  We all finally cruise into the lock, tie up  on the bollards (so easy) and watch the slow lock lower.  This is the slowest one to date yet.  I think we were in that lock an hour ourselves while 2 tows wait below.   Again there is a small opening to pass through the tugs and barges and the lock wall.  So glad it is not at all windy. 

We get out of there and travel slowly as we watch 2 of our new lock buddies speed up.  The river is so calm and the sun starts to come out. 

Rounding the bend of the river near Starved Rock, IL we have a new buddy that started in on the journey.  However 3 of the boats have now stopped.  We see 1 anchored, 1 at the fuel dock of the marina of the same name and 1 moving around the next bend.  I call the lockmaster at this lock, Starved Rock Lock.  He tells me he has 2 full tugs that will take over 3 hours to move along.  So now we look at the clock and know it will be 4 hours til we get through.  It’s noon so that means 2 or so hours after we get through the lock before nightfall because we are on Central Time and the sun sets early and rises early.  We contact Starved Rock Marina and set up a slip for the night.  We will be on the fuel dock.  The current occupant has no intention of leaving before the lock is ready so we drop anchor.  It was almost 4 hours later that we got the call to head to the lock.  We watched every boat leave and head to the lock as we headed to the fuel dock.  It was almost 4:30 anyway. 

We kept a look out at the live maps and those boats didn’t get underway until after 5:30.  We are happy we are at the dock as we settle in and reference some logistics that we have to take care of.  We still have some things to take care of as we did not expect to actually have the ability to travel.

The Asian Carp have made their appearance as well.  Sitting chatting in the salon we hear a sound coming from outside the boat.  On the dock there is a 3 pound, or so, Asian Carp flopping around.  It was too dark to take a pic but certain there will be more opportunities to photograph these jumpers.

Joliet, IL, city wall – Seneca, IL Springbrook Marina – Oct 12, 2021

With all the hype of issues staying on the Joliet wall we had none of it.  We had 30 amp power which is tucked into the green crisscross doors on the cement pillars.  No water available from what we did see.  The setting is very nice with tree lined park area.  There is a parking lot and what looks to be a city type building.  We had tornado warnings for a couple hours where the wind did pick up and a calling for 20 mm of rain in that 2 hour period.  However, none of that happened.  It just drizzled and rained on and off til around midnight. 

We called up the Brandan Lock Lockmaster and asked when he would like us to come through.  He said right away so we headed out around 8:00.  No waiting at this lock as it was ready for us.  Again this lock has a bollard that you loop your line around and it goes down with the water level.  Scott stays at the helm while I mid cleat our line and remain on watch.  Easiest way to do locks.  Thank you Army Corp of Engineers for making this passage so easy.

The Illinois River is a meandering river with a lot of history.  The river was important among Native Americans and early French traders as the principal water route connecting the Great Lakes with the Mississippi. The French colonial settlements along these rivers formed the heart of the area known as the Illinois Country in the 17th and 18th centuries. After the construction of the Illinois and Michigan Canal and theHennepin Canal in the 19th century, the role of the river as link between Lake Michigan and the Mississippi was extended into the era of modern industrial shipping. The Illinois now forms the basis for the Illinois Waterway (Wikipedia)

The Illinois River is a principal tributary of the Mississippi River and is approximately 273 miles (439 km) long. Located in the State of Illinois the river drains a large section of central Illinois, with a drainage basin of 28,756.6 square miles (74,479 km²).  The drainage basin extends into Wisconsin, Indiana and a very small area of southwestern Michigan.  (Wikipedia)

We notice that the colours of fall have not reached this area.  Trees are green with very little hint of the autumn blooms yet to come.  The winds are picking up as the day warms so the river has become choppy.  We have another lock to head through today before we call it an early day at Springbrook Marina in Seneca, IL.  The home of Heliopause on her delivery to the US from France. 

We did have to wait about 20 minutes for the lock to fill as it was in the empty stage. The lock at Dresden Lock is again a bollard.  Easy pass through on our last leg to Springbrook.  From here it is about an hour to our destination where we will stay a few days to get some work done that we have been putting off.  We know they will have parts if we need any as this is a Prestige Dealership.  As we pull in those pesky winds have picked up so Scott used his Captain skills and nestled her in with no issues.  It’s only 2:30. 

Scott starts on the set up for the work he wants to do.  I tidy up and catch up on the blog.  Homemade pizza for dinner is prepped. 

Chicago, IL – DuSable Marina Oct 10, 221

Scott was checking Nebo, the boat tracker app, and found that our Captain was on Navy Pier on the Tall Ship Windy.  Windy is a tour boat operated out of Chicago for a great sailing experience.  (https://tallshipwindy.com/)  Scott contacts Captain Karl for a meet up when we head out to discover what Navy Pier has to offer.  The pier known as Municipal Pier at the time opened in 1916, was renamed Navy Pier in 1927 to honor the Navy veterans of the first world war.  When the second world war emerged in the 1940s, Navy Pier went back to being a military station.  It mainly served as a place to have pilot training orientation.  The build was overseen by architect Charles Sumner Frost and based on Daniel Burnham’s “Master Plan of Chicago.” The purpose of the Pier was to be a shipping and recreation facility. Navy Pier has enjoyed a remarkable evolution. Originally designed for shipping and recreational purposes, the facility has evolved into a premiere entertainment and exposition center. The pier provides a skyline view only seen being “out front” of the buildings.   We wander until lunch and head back to the boat to dine.

After lunch we have designed a DIY walking architectural tour throughout the main streets of Chicago.  This tour will take us to some of the most acclaimed new buildings and some of the old Chicago buildings that came out the other side, after the burning of Chicago.  We walk The Magnificient Mile of Michigan Ave.  Churches, interesting, designed buildings, and read up on the history of how Chicago rebuilt itself after the burning as we stroll.  There are 3 major designs here in the downtown.  The cement and stone shorter buildings that were skyscrapers in their time, the next generation of tall buildings made of cement and steel and then the 100 story buildings made of steel and glass.  There is so much to learn about how each of these generations of buildings were made. 

Famous architects became famous due to their design of one of these buildings.  Truly a work of art.  The most famous architect is Burnham who in the late 1800’s designed Chicago with streets in a grid formulation.  All streets run north to south or vise versa, and east to west or vice versa.  There are no meandering through other streets.  The city streets are designed in a grid pattern and the city grew from there.  Also in Burnham’s idea for this city he included parks and green spaces which to this day remain.  They are plentiful throughout the city.  The boardwalk was also introduced in that era where you will find different modes of transportation each having their own lane to travel in that is away from the city streets and vehicles.  Our main goal was also to find a grocery store that was close to the boat.  With our cart in tow we also head out and fill our cupboards for traveling south. 

We rent a couple Lyft bikes and peddle our way along the waterfront trail. We were able to see so much more of the city and stopped at the Museum for water and a break before heading back to our boat. These bikes are amazing. You rent them from a kiosk by entering your credit card. Then you get a scan code to the bike you choose. It opens a lock and off you go. For a reasonable price you are able to cruise around for as long or short as you like and drop off the bike at another location that is to your liking. It locks in to a pedestal and you are charged on your credit card accordingly. It’s a great way to get around.

Tonight we are also welcomed with warm temps and dinner on the deck.  City lights glowing, in this our last day in a major city for a long while. 

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Sheboygeon, WI – Milwaukee, WI – Oct 8, 2021

Ralph factor 2.  Not bad seas today.  All good but another day just cruising along the shoreline.  We are excited to see the city lights tonight.  Just a 5 hour trek south to Milwaukee.  South, that’s the best word of the day.

There are many choices here for marinas and anchorages.  We decide to take the space by the Discovery Kids where an anchorage is available.  There is a marina here as well but no water, just power.  This area is to the south of Milwaukee Harbour.  We found a small grocery store and pickleball.  There is a river through Milwaukee that we plan to take with the tender and stop at both of these.

We get HP settled and get Otter, the tender, down to begin our exploring.  It is still early, around 2:30.  Off we go in Otter and onto the Milwaukee River.  What greets us is a huge surprise.  This area of Milwaukee is called the Third Ward.  It was the industrial age buildings that took us by surprise.  They have been converted into condos and apartments right alongside the river.  Not just a small area but the entire area.  There are restaurants, homes, shopping, boat slips all along here.  Old buildings mixed with modern updates to make homes. 

I wouldn’t call the river clean though,  They don’t do a good job of getting the garbage out so it floats together in spots looking more like a garbage dump than a river.  Come on people.  Take care of your waterways. 

So Scott had already mapped out the pickleball area.  It was alongside the river.  The city of Milwaukee has made the underpass of a main street a pickleball area with 2 courts.  We tie up Otter with a locked cable and head to the market.  At the market it is more of fast or fresh food to take out.  Okay so we re-think groceries for Chicago tomorrow.

So we head over to the pickleball, under the overpass.  What a great concept for use of space.  We start to play, just the 2 of us.  Then several folks show up and 2 courts are now going.  We met some very spunky 20 somethings and played several games with them.  It felt so good to play.  It has become my mission to find a good overpass in Niagara Falls and hope to sign them on for a good couple courts. 

After a good sweat we are back in Otter and heading back to HP.  Again passing through the river to the harbour entrance and still finding such great use for brownspace and older buildings.

It was so nice today, weather, boat ride, calm seas and new friends.   Now for those city lights which did not disappoint.  A beautiful city skyline sitting on the deck after a full day and very thankful.  Tomorrow is Chicago!!!

Sturgeon Bay, WI to Kauwanee, WI – Oct 6, 2021

Tired but so ready to begin our journey south.  For the first time we can officially say we are headed south instead of north.  Lake Michigan wasn’t too bad.  Unfortunately we have the next 5 days of easterlies which rarely happens on this lake.  Usually the winds are SW.  Just our luck that as we travel south we have waves on our beam.  Just enough to rock us so not too bad.  Our sailor friends would be jealous. 

An uneventful day as we head to Kauwanee, WI.  We have not done much homework on this place other than we know there is a town wall, power but no water.  The marina cannot take our size.  As we travel down Lake Michigan we notice that the trees have not started to change colours yet.  There is a dabble of colour but not near as much as we had when we left home.  We are fairly far out, about 10 miles or so, so not much to see other than water.  Sun is out and it’s a great day to cruise.

Kauwanee city wall is a great place to stop.  Full power and a free pump out.  We move to the pump out and then hand pull Heliopause back to her spot for the night.  We head out for a walk about.  The town has the largest grandfather clock in the world.  It was made by a businessman here about 50 years ago and it still stands in all its glory.  It has a 3 sided face so everyone in town can see the time.  There is also an old tug here named Ludington.  Ludington was involved in the DDay activities of WWII.  She was a tug that brought in supplies needed for DDay.  She also provisioned other ships, brought in fuel and was the go getter for that infamous day.  Today she rests here in Kauwanee as a walk on tour boat for a donation. 

There is also a fish monger store here.  We head over as the fishing boat comes in and see what the fresh catch of the day is.  Atlantic Salmon are just starting to run and the King Salmon are just about done.  Apparently the Kauwanee River attracts these salmon every year in abundance.  We pick up some fresh Atlantic Salmon, perch, pickerel (or walleye) and the renowned smoked salmon that is boasted about in the reviews.  There is a grocery store about a mile uphill and the harbourmaster has offered us a personal ride.  We are good until Chicago so we decline.

It was a breezy evening and night with the easterlies as this marina is not far from the lake and more open.  However we did not bounce much and recommend this as a great spot.

Hotel Quattro, Sault Ste Marine, ON Oct 3 – 5, 2021

ON HOLD until we can meet up with Heliopause.  So we walk everywhere.  Grocery store for our meals, hardware store because Scott needs something for the boat.  The bank where both of us can do some last minute banking, and lots and lots of logistics for travel for both us and our Captain and his crew. 

It is literally putting together our schedules and the Captain and crew’s schedule, but last minute as we don’t know exactly what the weather will hold for our girl and her new team on the journey south.

Stay tuned until we get back to our home in Sturgeon Bay, WI.

Eagle Island, anchorage – St. Joseph’s Island, Hilton Beach, ON – Hilton Beach Marina – Oct 1, 2021

Today is the day we end this portion of our journey and wait for the Captain to take over from here.  We are hoping for a best case scenario but that has evaded us thus far.  The border is still closed and word has been said that it will be closed until at least November.  Our plan is to have the Captain take her to Chicago where we have 3 options.  She will get there and the border will open and we will have the ability to get a cruising permit.  Or…..she will get there and the border will eventually open.  We will fly home and wait it out.  Or…..she will get there, the border will remain closed and we will put her on the hard until spring when we will go get her and bring her home going through the lakes again. 

We head out of the anchorage very early and travel to St. Joe’s Island.  We never would have thought that we would ever travel quickly through the North Channel but that’s what we have to do.  It’s October, we have a Captain waiting, flights booked, cars and shuttles picking up his team.  There is no time to waste. 

Arriving at Beach Haven Marina proves to be much more convenient than The Soo.  The St. Mary’s River that heads up to The Soo has a 10 km speed limit for several miles.  It would take us a day up and the Captain a day back down.  He charges by the day and all expenses are ours.  So Scott found this island not far from the Port of Entry in Drummond Island, MI.  It was about an hour away from the airport.  Taxis have already been set up. 

Hilton Beach Marina was a fabulous find.  A large marina with everything you need.  Laundry, clean docks, water, fuel, power 50 and 30, restrooms, etc.  Some city marinas are not this great.  A restaurant on the shore if that is your thing. One of the best marinas in the north we would say.